This season, I’ve had three perfumes on repeat that I’m quite excited to share with you. While each perfume is very different, two are from women perfumers with their creations representing the cool, niche, bespoke factor while the third comes from one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. You may agree that perfume is just as much about emotions as well as the overall scent and that we link scents to memories in so many ways, something I talked about here.
That said, Miller Harris Poirier d’un Soir is a gorgeous rendition of a fruit-led perfume, with pear being the fruit in this instance. Chances are, pear is not really a note you may think of in a perfume. But @millerharris has captured it beautifully in Poirier d’un Soir, the scent of pear in an evening garden. The pear notes slip aside to make way for warm notes of rum, spice and Turkish rose, layered over musk, cedar and cashmere wood.💘😉
Flitting between sparkly and warm, floral, musky and intriguingly aloof even, Poirier d’un Soir unfolds to tell a scintillating story. Some have stated their preference for it during cooler months but I can’t be bogged down by ‘seasonal’ guides to anything quite frankly. If I love it, I’m wearing it and this perfume is a demonstration of that.
Miller Harris’ backstory opens with it as a bespoke perfume house founded by Lyn Harris, a classically trained British perfumer who cultivated a career with some of the biggest names in the fragrance industry. Her fragrance training took her to Paris and Grasse, thereafter her brand emerged in 2000. Miller Harris’ portfolio also includes candles (I’ve been rationing my candle in Digne de Toi) which I’ve written about here, along with bath and body products plus other special items. Lastly, Ms. Harris has since gone on to found Perfumer H, her newest bespoke fragrance line driven by seasonality and remaining faithful to conventional fragrance families of citrus, florals, fern, orientals and wood. #backstorybeautyloves
The second of the two perfumes that score extremely high on being cool, bespoke and enigmatic is the fragrance simply called ‘C’. Created by British perfumer Azzi Glasser, her award-winning brand The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi, is one I’ve had my eye on for far too long, especially after first encountering her on Twitter of all places. Her talents gave birth to some of the industry’s most impactful fragrances. If you remember the first fragrance from Agent Provocateur some years back, that was her work (I finished my bottle in less than a year). Plus, she’s also created fragrances for the brand Bella Freud among others and has expanded her portfolio to include candles.
C beckons my nose and head to a state of enchantment awash in notes of pepper, neroli, vetiver, musk and wood along with other resins. Easily, this is the most unusual addition to my collection with its warm, green, sparkling, slightly smoky notes that emerge on the dry-down. Collectively, the notes are an enigma, with its magnetic composition that colours outside the lines with its exclusive alchemy. C is not a ‘group-think’ fragrance. You won’t catch a wisp of it on every fourth person strolling along on their commute. Instead, I imagine wearers of C threading through ritzy spaces or less polished ones with equal aplomb. C is ultimately the best kind of head-trip in a bottle. With a balanced composition that is clean, smooth, nuanced and skin-clingy in the best way, its lasting power runs through most of the day on me. If a fragrance is meant to tell a story whilst you wear it, C tells many juicy ones as it evolves on the skin. Oh, and the word is that Kate Moss is a big fan as well.
Guerlain Terracotta Le Parfum has surprised me with its rendition of what summer would smell like if bottled. Heavy on florals, coconut and musk, this is a heady scent that begs to be chosen when temperatures are high. This perfume also makes me think of what youth sometimes smells like; unapologetic, heady, unbridled and upbeat. It also makes me think of hair, wet from the pool or a dip in the sea or a scene where you’re lounging on a boat, shades on, sipping on something citrusy and sparkling..
After the first spritz, my eyes opened wide because I was surprised by how vivid Terracotta Le Parfum is initially. But once that dissipates, that’s when the layers of this perfume begin emerging to reveal the various notes that also include vanilla. The vanilla connects the entire composition infusing it with an intoxicating creaminess. After a while, the scent of your own skin begins to peek through, underscored by the scent. This is such a phenomenal attribute that demonstrates the immense mastery of Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s resident perfumer and the creator of this fragrance. Terracotta Le Parfum was released in 2014 as an interpretation of Guerlain’s best-selling Terracotta bronzers. Now a permanent fixture in the brand’s classic encyclopedia of scents, Terracotta Le Parfum has excellent sillage. By day’s end, this fragrance has gone through a number of shifts, leaving skin enveloped in what I can only describe as a creamy veil of sun.